Problems with your SmartEye? These notes will ensure that you get your SmartEye system working as quickly as possible. DOWNLOAD our PDF instructions (52k) Notes The "female" (socket) connector of the SmartEye goes to the Sky Digibox. Early versions of the SmartEye version had no LED. No longer stocked by SatCure. (We had batches that fell apart and also supply problems, resulting in too many customer complaints. It was a good product - when it held together - but we had to make a decision.) Important As stated in our catalogue, it is most important to connect your Digibox "RF Output 2" to your SmartEye with a continuous run of double-shielded coaxial cable (eg. RG6 or better). We recommend our CO02D - double-shielded RF lead. The cable should have no attenuator, kinks, joints, sockets, splitters or wall plates (except our approved type). However, you can use one of our "SkyLink compatible amplifiers" if you are distributing the signal to more than one additional TV set. The SmartEye might work reliably with ordinary TV aerial cable (and you are welcome to try it) but don't be surprised if it doesn't. Ordinary cable can let in more interference than double shielded cable and this can prevent the Digibox from recognising the signals from the SmartEye. The cable should be routed away from mains wiring and any source of strong interference, regardless of the type of cable used. Certain devices can interfere with the correct operation of infra-red remote controls. The main culprits are lights (especially "energy saving", fluorescent and the high brightness mercury and sodium types), computer monitors and some sources of radio interferences, too. The "magic eye" infra red sensor may not work if it is placed on, or very close to, a TV set which is emitting interference. A common problem is that people stick the "eye" to a plasma screen or large TV set and then report intermittent or no operation. If you have problems, please move the "eye" well away from any equipment that might interfere. A distance of 3 metres is required in the case of some large flat screens! The SmartEye simply passes the TV picture straight through and sends the remote control signals back to the Digibox. The SmartEye is not needed unless you want to use a Sky remote control. It has no effect on picture or sound. *Connecting an Amplifier If you use an amplifier to distribute signals to other TV sets, you must use a "SkyLink compatible" type or else use a "bypass" device. This ensures that the infrared signal from your remote control gets sent as an electrical signal back to your Digibox "RF Output 2" (which is an imput for the remote signals). If your system fails to work then you should carry out the above tests before connecting your amplifier. If the amplifier is suspect, it's usually best to connect it close to the Digibox in order to test it. Do not connect a second TV until you are sure that the system works. (Some TV sets prevent the link system from working and may need a "decoupler"). Note that some amplifiers require 230v mains power and some get their power from the Digibox. Please read the notes carefully.   DIGITAL CABLE? >With regard to the installation of the SmartEye extender unit, just a quick question. >Can I use ordinary aerial cable (which I have about a 25m roll left after >installing a new TV aerial) or does it have to be higher quality (like >the cable used for the satellite installation) ? Interesting question but there's no quick answer. In the good old days before satellite, you could get away with almost any crappy coaxial cable. However, satellite receivers tend to radiate some interference, locally, so it's best to use good quality, double-screened cable within a couple of metres of the satellite receiver - otherwise its radiated "noise" gets into the cable through the poor outer screen. This problem also suggests that coaxial wall sockets should either not be used or should be of the fully-screened type. In addition, the down-lead from the TV aerial should be double-screened near the satellite receiver. This brings up another point: terrestrial digital TV transmissions are terribly susceptible to problems with car ignition interference and of switching transients within the building. This fact dictates that the complete run of cable from the aerial down to the first box that it plugs into should be double-screened and *without* any in-line connectors or sockets. NO coaxial cable should be run close to any mains power cables since these radiate switching transients which can knock out a digital picture and even "lock up" the receiver. Taking both factors into account, it seems that ALL coaxial runs within the building ought to be of double-screened cable *without* any in-line connectors or sockets. If that is impractical, then any socket/plug arrangement should be fully screened. This is most easily arranged by stripping the guts out of a wall plate socket and glueing in a suitable female coaxial plug. (This can be of the usual TV "IEC" variety or the satellite type "F" connector, as used extensively for TV in the USA. The wall cable fits directly into this female plug before the plate is screwed onto the wall. It does present a problem because extra depth is needed behind the wall plate to allow the cable to curve gently. I'll look into this and see if I can find a suitable female plug.) So, in answer to your question: if the installation already uses single-screen cable you can try it and see if it is OK. If it is not OK or if you are installing new cable then *always* play safe and use double-screened cable. If you need to use a distribution amplifier then at least two factors must be considered. 1. It must be suitable for digital signals, if that is what it is distributing. (The signal from the terrestrial aerial must be considered "digital". The RF1 output from a digital box is currently NOT digital - goodness knows what it will be in the future when all TV sets accept a digital signal). 2. It must be able to pass the signals from a "Remote Eye" or SmartEye extender - even if you don't use one now, you might want to in future. Alternatively, you could fit a "Bypass" unit but this *might* have a detrimental affect on the signal because it adds two in-line connectors. For more information about wiring and minimising interference, please see this booklet "Piping TV Around the House". If your "SkyLink" doesn't work while connected to your TV set but does work when you disconnect it from your TV and just hold the connector close to the aerial socket, then our Decoupler should solve your problem. Screw connection each end. See our technical page for "F" plug fitting instructions. Note: we've had several reports of SmartEyes working fine when connected close to the Sky Digibox but NOT working when connected via (say) 8 metres of cable. This usually occurs with the SKY+ Digibox and one solution which often works is to extend the cable by adding an extra 4 metres (but this may vary from one installation to the next. A very short length might do). Send this page address - CLICK HERE - to a friend ! Copyright ©2001-2011 Martin Pickering Version 1.1 updated on May 15, 2002