How to fit a male IEC TV plug to double-screened cable 
The most common faults are caused by the cheap "clothes line" fly-lead that you bought from a DIY store. It can snap invisibly inside, the screening is usually poor, and the attenuation (signal loss) high. If your fly-lead is less than 6mm in diameter, it's probably worth replacing it if you are in any doubt. Make your own from double-shielded cable (or buy from us) and you'll be amazed by the difference! Also recommended if you are having Sky remote extender problems! |
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| Interference is radiated by electronic equipment such as your TV set, DVD player, mains wiring, computer etc. (If you don't believe this, try holding an AM radio next to them!) The interference is usually strongest behind the TV set so you must ensure that all coaxial "fly-leads", "drop cables" in the wall, and wall plates are fully shielded, otherwise the interference gets carried back into the Freeview or TV tuner! (Never place equipment on or near the TV which emits a lot of interference.) |
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| Most TV plugs have a "centre pin" which is a tiny nickel-plated brass tube set in plastic. When you heat it, the plastic will melt and destroy the plug. So you must prepare it for soldering by removing the nickel plating with a small (3mm) twist drill and/or a file. This will allow the solder to "wet" the brass very quickly. |
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| (This method is also shown in a movie, below.) Use a knife to score around the plastic sheath of the double-screened cable. |
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| Twist the braided copper copper strands into a "pigtail" and tear off the copper foil. Use a knife to score carefully around the white (dielectric) plastic insulation and pull it off, leaving a 3mm stub projecting as in the photo below. |
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| Put the nickel-plated brass screw cap onto the cable.
(Don't be tempted to use cheap aluminium plugs. The threads bind easily and they oxidise after a year or two.) |
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| Put the brass collar onto the cable and twist it until the "pigtail" is coiled up inside it. *(see note below) If you want to be absolutely certain of a good connection, solder the end of the pigtail to one of the lugs of the brass collar before twisting it on. |
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| Slide the plug body over the cable centre core (copper wire) and screw the cap onto the threaded body, tightly. |
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| If you have never used a soldering iron, this is not the time to practice. Get someone to solder the copper wire quickly to the exposed brass of the centre pin. |
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| Use side-cutters to remove the excess copper wire. Order IEC TV plugs |
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| If one of your connections needs to be female you'll also need our "COLCM - male - female converter". |
| * Note: We have sold thousands of leads made like this, with no returns, but I have been criticised for suggesting this simple method of wrapping the braid under the brass collar. The "official" method is described here:
http://www.megalithia.com/elect/bellinglee/index.html My method is easier, less messy (no strands of copper braid everywhere) and forms a good connection. I've been making leads like this since 1960. However, if you prefer to listen to the "experts", please use the "official" method. Remote extender "magic eyes" and masthead amplifiers need to be powered via the coaxial cable. If the "TV" plugs aren't fitted correctly, the connection will be intermittent and you'll have problems. "Magic-eyes" may not work if too close to the TV (interference). Always connect to the TV with a double-screened cable. Move further away from the TV if you have problems. If you still have problems with the "eye" 3 metres away, you may need to decouple the cable to the TV. We make up our own "fly-leads" using WF100 cable (in various colours). You can buy them from us or make your own.
Watch the movie and have a laugh at my northern accent and unavoidable fumbling as things roll away from me! (If the movie won't run smoothly, click the pause button and let the red line advance for a minute before clicking play). |
